It’s reckless and dangerous to suggest that you can “safely” use household AC parts to wire up your mobile home. All the switch gear has to be built up for low voltage DC operation, and then the wiring has to be sized up to account for the fault current situation being close to normal operation. A switch that’s rated for 10 Amps AC will typically be rated for 1-2 Amps DC because of that. It’s the opposite.Ī 230 Volt 6 Amp circuit can handle 1400 Watts but the same circuit with a 12 Volt DC source can only supply 72 Watts, but not safely because the switches and contacts are sized for AC which breaks every half-cycle while DC does not, so you get contact erosion, arcing and welding, localized heating and probably a fire if you try to operate it at the same capacity for too long. Electrical systems and components designed for household AC are not designed to deal with “way way more than that load” in a low voltage DC situation. > this is the sane way doing it as low power DC through off the shelf parts able to deal with way way more than that load Just obviously use the right type of Fuse etc for the job in hand! Along with that all mains components I’ve ever seen are either actively rated and stamped into the parts with all the other specs to well over the normal Car/RV/Boat/Powertool type end of DC power or at least so overbuilt for that level of DC power that official rating or no it shouldn’t pose any problems in itself. Yes and no – as what is a fuse but deliberately flimsy wire that will fail rapidly to make everything safe.Īnd even if you assume the wire won’t get hot enough to actually fail its going to stink like buggery rather early on in the process set of fire alarms etc all long before it should have been able to ignite anything else – as you don’t tend to surround your electrics with highly volatile materials.Ĭars may start to burn for an electrical fault, but generally they really burn because they are full of stuff that really likes to burn and that stuff was given that kick by the electrical fault, take the fuel and oils away and usually not much happens…īUT NOTE I never said you should use flimsy wiring, or anything of the sort, just that at the low power end of DC what is required for safety isn’t all that vast. The latter being the simplest but most inconvenient IMO as you don’t want to have two of every device and battery charger for the dual voltages but a large enough inverter or transformer to cover your entire draw isn’t trivial to find or cheap. Just don’t try and be ‘smart’ and have both voltages potentially available with the same connector, even if its a carvan/boat system which might reasonably be dual voltage as that will get confusing even to you the maker I expect in a few years time – either everything with that connector is 12-36v DC and you have a transformer, or its all 240V AC with the inverter, or you have entirely separate wiring and connectors for shore power and onboard battery power. Really its the best way round to do this as anything ‘standard’ for that connector will at best work really poorly at worst just not work at all. Posted in LED Hacks Tagged 12 V, diy, GU10, LED lamp, m3 bolt, socket-head, wiring Post navigationĪs long as you keep it this way and the wiring in the walls switches etc is all clearly not mains cable anybody coming upon it should go ‘huh’ and figure out its low voltage using higher rated connectors. Avoiding electrical oopsies is always worth putting effort into, after all. Be mindful of that, and take appropriate precautions. So if you decide to use his design (or use GU10 sockets for your own purposes), be aware that you’ll have hardware that looks interchangeable with other (mains-connected) sockets, but isn’t. We do love using things for other than their intended purpose, but as points out, GU10 sockets are normally connected to mains power. ’s retrofit worked great, and thanks to M3 bolts he was able to re-use the existing weatherproof wiring and sockets in his yard. Apparently, socket-headed M3 bolts are pretty much identical in size to GU10 lugs. So he did what any enterprising hacker would do and found a substitute that was both accessible and economical: M3 bolts. Those distinctive lugs that twist into GU10 sockets? simply couldn’t find anywhere offering to sell them in small quantities.
Luckily, M3 socket head bolts are a near-perfect match. These GU10 bulb lugs are tough to buy in small quantities. That meant putting GU10 lugs onto his custom PCBs, but he ran into a snag. Has an interesting LED bulb project with a neat twist: he converted some outdoor lighting to 12 V LED lighting with some self-designed bulb replacements and decided to reuse the existing GU10 sockets and wiring.
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